We all think we know which apples are in our orchards, but when you grow hundreds of different types of apples mistakes are inevitable. It can be as simple as a mislabelled tree which, while embarrassing, is typically easily sorted out.
But what if the error is widespread and how to do we really know if the apples we grow today are the same as those grown by our predecessors?
Take, for example, the Virginia Hewes (aka Hughes) crab apple. This is a widely grown and popular cidermaking apple and is often said to have been a favorite of Thomas Jefferson. It’s fun to grow an apple that was also enjoyed by our founding fathers. Unfortunately a recent publication broke this connection with history and argued that the so-called Virginia Hewes of today is not the same apple that was grown in colonial Virginia and our version of the Virginia Crab likely originated at least 100 years later. The original Virginia Hewes crab apple enjoyed by Jefferson and others might be lost, or it might be hiding in the corner of a historic orchard, but it is almost certainly not the apple grown by that same name today.
The Apple of My Eye
While DNA sequencing is an modern option to identify and learn the lineage of modern apples, the best way to identify an apple is by eye. In his book Apples and the Art of Detection, the apple legend John Bunker outlines his methodology of apple identification and shares stories of Maine’s apples.
The first step of apple identification is to consider the tree. If the tree is 100 years old it is not a Cosmic Crisp! In Sonoma County only 5-10 apples were widely grown in the 1800’s so there is a short list to consider for older trees. Is the tree grafted? If there is no graft visible then it might be a wild apple seedling that is unique to itself and you get to name it. What is the nature of the tree? Is it spreading with wide branches? Is it tall and upright? The shape of the apple tree can vary just as much as the apples themselves.
Next consider harvest season. In Sonoma county, Gravenstein apples ripen in early August. If the apple is not ripe until October – it’s not a Gravenstein. One of the arguments suggesting that the modern Virginia Hewes crab apples are not the original notes that historical records of the Virginia Hewes are typically harvested in October, unlike the modern apple which is harvested in late August or early September.
When we get to the apple itself there are many traits to consider
- Size: Apples range from < 0.5” to over 4 inches in diameter.
- Shape: Apples can be flattened (Roxbury Russet) or football shaped (Kerr). concial (Hudson’s Golden Gem). etc. They also can be, when viewed from the top, a regular circular shape, lopsided, or ribbed.
- Stem and Cavity: How long is the stem? How thick is it? Is the Cavity where the stem connects to the apple deep or shallow and what is the angle? Is the cavity symmetric or is there a hump on one side?
- Apex, Basin, and Calyx: What does the bottom apple look like. Is there a sharp bottom with a deep basin to the calyx (remnants of the flower)? Is it lobed? (famously the Caville Blanc d’Hiver has dramatic lobes). What does the calyx itself look like?
- Skin: What color is the apple? Is it stripped? Are there spots? Is the apple russeted (looks like rusty metal) and if so how much and where? Is there a bloom? (a wax-like tacky surface)?
- Flesh: What color is the flesh? How crisp is it? How dense? Does it water core (form up a translucent appearance)
- Internal Shape: Cut an apple radially and another longitudinally . Look at the shape of the core along both axis. The shape of core from the calyx to stem is quite distinctive between apples as is the shape of the seed cavity
- Taste: Finally don’t forget to taste the apple! Afterall isn’t that the point? What flavors do you experience? Our Kerr apple tastes exactly like a lychee candy while others can taste like dark and smokey. Is it sweet? Is it acidic? How strong are the tannins?
While it might seem intimidating and overwhelming I find it somewhat comforting that there are so many things to look at on an apple. The more facts you have the easier the mystery. As per Sherlock Holmes: When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
Assorted Apple Mysteries
Given the long history of apple cultivation there are plenty of historical rabbit holes to explore and it often leads to more questions than it answers and a realization of how little we actually know about our historic apple cultivars.
One of our favorite apples is the Golden Russet. This late season apple originates from the early 19th century and has a rich graham cracker flavor with good sugar (20 brix) and acid (~3.75 pH). It’s named for its golden color rough russeted skin. Unfortunately there are many apples that have this color and skin and so there are at several different widely grown apples that are called Golden Russet, which can cause confusion in the marketplace.
Sometimes the errors are hidden in plain sight. One of the celebrated English cider apples is the Foxwhelp. It is widely grown in England and dates back to the 17th century. Foxwhelp was officially introduced the US nearly a century ago (Hayes). Many people noticed that the Foxwhelp cider made in the US was simply not that exciting (Bunker). It wasn’t until 15 years ago that people realized that the apple called Foxwhelp in the US was completely unrelated to the real Foxwhelp due to labeling error and the US apple is now referred to as Fauxwhelp. Luckily through persistence and effort the true Foxwhelp was recently officially imported to the US and is now available through a few sources. We grow both Fauxwhelp and the true Foxwhelp.
There are many more mysteries to explore and we encourage you to purchase some of the books in the references to learn more of the history and complexity of apple identification & naming.
In the end the question is does it matter? The cider and brandy made by the apple we call Virginia Hewes is excellent. It’s not the same cider made by Thomas Jefferson. Honestly we are torn. Its good to live in the moment and not worry about historical accuracy but as scientists we want to be precise. This is all part of the ambiguity of a living craft.
References
Zakalik and Peck article on the mistaken identify of the Virginia Hewes apple
Hayes Cidercraft article on Fauxwhelp/Foxwhelp
Bunker Malus article on Foxwhelp
Cidertales by Darlene Hayes
Apples and the Art of Detection by John Bunker